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ACGODFREY
Silver Member
United Kingdom
440 Posts |
 Posted - 31 May 2009 : 9:22:52 PM
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Any good ideas how to do this? My boy did this happily at when first backed, but now we are doing more work consistently he will not. He moves his quarters away from the block when I gather the reins but is fine when a helper stands at his off side. I repeat the whole process of lining him up patiently and consistently, and after a few mins he will give up moving. Once on he does not move off, I am not jabbing him in the side when I get on. He is a clever lad and we think he is just testing me. We do not think he is uncomfortable, although he is being brought back into work very slowly after 18 months off after his diagnosis with navicular. He is 6 but his early education was halted when he was diagnosed after a month or so of work.
Any ideas appreciated. Thanks
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kimzi
Gold Member
865 Posts |
Posted - 31 May 2009 : 10:03:42 PM
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| Praise and reward (bits of carrot), start by just asking him to stand at the block, when he can do this for long periods, start putting your foot in the stirrup and build up from there. You will need 2 of you. We have done this successfully for many ex NH horses. |
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NatH
Platinum Member
England
2695 Posts |
Posted - 01 Jun 2009 : 11:46:41 AM
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| Yes, when mounting stand your horse facing a gate so it can't move forward. When mounting remember to give the 'stand' voice command and offer lots and lots of praise when he stands quietly. |
Natalie
Chapel Lane Arabians
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Mrs Vlacq
Platinum Member
Wales
3776 Posts |
Posted - 01 Jun 2009 : 12:06:29 PM
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Pet hate for me (I have to use a block as damaged knee) so tend to use a helper 90% of the time 
corner of yard/arena which blocks his usual fidget route
a polo to nibble at fed low so his back is soft
a whoa command as you put foot in stirrup and don't pick your reins up - I've solved so many bad mounting horses by getting on with little or no contact!!
And practice it at the end of your session when he's unwound a bit |
    
- V Khazad - V Calacirya & V Sulime - Quarida(L) - V Boogie Knights - V Hamra Tofiq |
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ACGODFREY
Silver Member
United Kingdom
440 Posts |
Posted - 01 Jun 2009 : 8:57:08 PM
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Thanks for ideas. I always use a mounting block. I have a little plastic one I use and sometimes use the permanent much bigger higher block. I prefer the plastic one as I can plant it then climb on it easily without standing way above the horse, whereas the permanent block requires you to climb up high then align horse to it. Both my boys do not like people standing much higher above them.
I have tried facing to the wall, facing into the corner, 'parking' him between wall and block but he is very spooky/over sensitive and tends to whip round/shoot off at the slightest noise/movement so I think this is tempting fate in a way and that he'll take the block with him and spook himself silly.
I shall continue persevering. It is usually just me as it is hard to have someone else there at the same time which doesn't help. |
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Deboniks
Platinum Member
England
3776 Posts |
Posted - 01 Jun 2009 : 10:23:44 PM
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I don't know if this will help?
I've just restarted a horse that not only moved away but did flying bucks as soon as his owner put a foot in the stirrup!Sometimes even after a few steps, anyone that tried to ride him ended up in the sand!
I took him back to basics and this worked for me..
First I taught him from the ground how to move from pressure,then I taught him how to side step towards me. Then I stood on a mounting block(actually the pedestal in my sig pic, it's been VERY useful!)
When he side stepped towards me I clicked my fingers until that's all I had to do to get him to come over to mount.The next step was just lots of rubbing (all over and with my legs and laying on him)while standing on the block, if he moved off I just played a few games that he knew and clicked my fingers and he would return and then rub him again. I repeated this until I could mount but as soon as I did I would get off again doing this many times. Then I would mount and just sit there and do nothing but rub him and get off again. I always let them move their feet if they need to and I go back to the start, even if he took one step when I was on him. Personally I like space so they can move about and not feel trapped. This sounds a lot of work when it's written down, but it was worth it because if I stand on something and click my fingers he happily steps into position, which will be very helpful for his owner.
I think it has to do with the horses confidence.I believe that a horse that walks when you want it to stand will trot when you want it to walk,canter when you want it to trot etc.... he will be the horse that will potentially bolt. If it took three weeks to build this solid foundation it's worth every minute.I'm doing a lot of other work with this horse to ensure he is as safe as can be for his owner, safety and relationship is priority.
I hope this helps |
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Edited by - Deboniks on 01 Jun 2009 10:30:16 PM |
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Songbird
Bronze Member
England
152 Posts |
Posted - 04 Jun 2009 : 7:22:57 PM
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| This probably sounds a bit simplistic but I would go back to teaching the horse to 'stand' on command in hand. I find this has always worked for me . As long as they understand the command then you just use it for mounting . It's like most things with horses , teach them the basic lessons in hand first and it can save time and grief later. Honest , it works. |
Kit Rolfe |
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